Academician’s Garment of the Song Dynasty
In recent years, many graduates have chosen to wear Hanfu for their graduation ceremonies, bowing together to express their gratitude to teachers and elders, which has sparked widespread discussion. Hanfu is not just everyday clothing; it also embodies profound rituals. What kind of Hanfu would be appropriate for such a formal occasion? I believe the Academician’s Garment of the Song Dynasty is the most suitable. The Academician’s Garment of the Song Dynasty mainly features with a horizontal border at the bottom hem, favored by scholars who have achieved academic success as their preferred ceremonial attire. It’s a bit ironic that this garment is more suited for men.
Compared to other dynasties, the attiress of the Song Dynasty were characterized by simplicity, natural lines, conservative modesty, and muted colors. Not only the Academician’s Garment but also other Song Dynasty attire deserve our attention.
Characteristics of Song Dynasty Clothing
The overall style of Song Dynasty clothing was structurally simple, without excessive decorations, and the colors were conventional. The contrast yoke jackets, skirts, and blouses of the Song Dynasty were no longer as bright and luxurious as those of the Tang Dynasty. There was a shift towards “containing the form” and “tightening the body,” wrapping the body with clothing, adopting a more conservative style.
In many ways, the clothing of the Song Dynasty inherited the characteristics of Tang Dynasty clothing, while also innovating and evolving based on the lifestyle of Song Dynasty people. This can be well explained by the Song Dynasty men’s robes, which improved upon the Tang Dynasty’s round-collar robes in terms of collar, cuffs, symmetry of front and back panels, edging, and back hem.
Song Dynasty clothing showcased a unique sense of fashion. The representative Song Dynasty garment, the straight-collared contrast jacket, often paired with a cheongsam, served as an inner layer, delicate and contoured to the body’s curves. The waist was adorned with a belt, not only highlighting the wearer’s figure but also adding layers and vitality to the overall look.
Impact of Song Dynasty Clothing on Modern Fashion
Song Dynasty women’s clothing focused on showcasing women’s beauty and elegance, holding an important place in history and having a profound impact on modern fashion design. Designers have drawn inspiration from its pattern elements, enriching modern fashion design and showcasing an artful aesthetic that transcends time. Women’s garments such as the beizi, two-piece skirt, and Song trousers have been passed down to today，evolving into modern fashion items， are loved by modern women.
In stark contrast to the colorful and dazzling styles of the Tang Dynasty, the Song Dynasty abandoned its ornate style in favor of a more plain and rational approach, paying more attention to details. This is exactly why Song Dynasty attiress became popular.