What were the characteristics of Tang Dynasty women’s clothing?
The clothing system for Tang Dynasty women centered around the “Ru Qun” style, establishing an apex in Eastern fashion aesthetics. The classic combination of a short jacket worn above and a high-waisted long skirt below, with the waistline tied just under the bust, outlined the figures of the women in a plump and rounded manner akin to a pear, accentuating their curvaceous beauty. This reflected the social trend of admiring fuller figures during the Tang Dynasty.
With frequent foreign exchanges and significant cultural integration, Hufu elements introduced through the Silk Road had an impact on Tang Dynasty clothing. The layered dressing method of Tang Hanfu, with a half-sleeve short shirt over a tunic, is a manifestation of this influence.
Colors in Tang Dynasty Clothing
Let’s go back to that prosperous era of the Tang Dynasty. In the West Market of Chang’an, we can see clothing merchants everywhere. The fabrics they sell include brocade with the pattern of circular medallion containing beads and figured silk with the pattern of the precious flower. They all share the same characteristic, that is, the collision of vivid color blocks such as intense cinnabar red, peacock blue, pomegranate red, and they present a classic style full of grace, luxury and grandeur.
We must mention the “Pounding Silk Painting,” which showcases the splendor and features of Tang Dynasty clothing, hairdos, headgear, makeup, as well as information on daily utensils. The portrayal of “plump figures” in the painting，represents the typical style of the prosperous Tang Dynasty, providing vivid material for understanding that era.
Makeup Styles of the Tang Dynasty
In an era of open social norms and strong national power, influenced by diverse foreign cultures, women’s makeup formed an aesthetic consensus of “one white can hide a thousand faults.” It was common practice to apply lead powder for facial base makeup and use rouge. Based on this, a variety of makeup styles from the “Forehead Yellow Makeup” to the “Wine Blush Makeup” were created, forming an extensive system of up to dozens of styles.
The facial dimple makeup was initially the green forehead ornament used to cover up blemishes, which gradually evolved into the “slanting red” makeup that noblewomen used to show their status，visible in the human figures of Dunhuang murals, where gold foil cut into shapes of flowers and birds was pasted on the cheeks. Regarding lip makeup, besides paying special attention to the color of the lipstick, there was also a preference for different lip-lining styles, such as “Lip Color” and “Lip Halo”.
How Tang Dynasty Women Displayed Their Beauty
As the silk draped over their bodies fluttered with their steps, resembling the ribbons of flying goddesses, and exquisite hair ornaments swayed, Tang Dynasty women achieved an ultimate display of their body aesthetics through these attires. As seen in the “Ladies in Flower Hairpins Painting,” the peonies inserted at the top of the noblewomen’s hairdos visually corresponded with the floral patterns on their pomegranate skirts, making every woman in magnificent attire appear like a walking piece of aesthetic art.
Cleverly matching the makeup with the styling of the clothing can not only showcase a woman’s charm and elegance, but also reveal the characteristics of the era and the charm of the culture in the details.
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