Within the Hanfu system, Ming Dynasty clothing stand out for their distinct era features and ethnic styles. They reflect the high maturity of Confucianism in the Ming Dynasty. Thus, the overall style of Ming costumes is elegant and dignified, focusing on highlighting people’s spiritual demeanor.
Among these, the Ming Dynasty women’s aoqun stands as a typical representative of the dynasty’s overall costume system. It boasts unique design charm and aesthetic significance, embodying the grand spirit of the Ming Dynasty.
What is Aoqun?
The basic structure of Ming Dynasty aoqun includes an “ao” (a short jacket) for the upper body and a skirt for the lower body. It pursues an elegant, well-proportioned outline as a whole. It is a typical style of aoqun in China and a common Hanfu in the Ming Dynasty.
The ao usually has a cross-collar with the right side overlapping the left (a style called “you ren”). Its front placket fastens to the right. It comes in various sleeve styles: sleeves were relatively narrow in the early Ming, then gradually became wider in the mid-to-late period. The “pipa sleeve” (lute-shaped sleeve) is its typical style.
The ao has slits on both sides of the body and is often lined inside. The lower skirt is mostly a “mamian skirt” (a traditional pleated skirt). A mamian skirt has four panels – two at the front and two at the back – which overlap in pairs. When walking, the skirt sways like ripples, showing a flexible and elegant beauty.
Ming Dynasty aoqun for women showcases steadiness and dignity. It is mainly made of fabrics like silk, satin, thin silk, and gauze. The choice of fabric and its thickness varies with seasons.
Aoqun shares the same style as Ming Dynasty Hanfu robes. It not only adapted to the requirements of the ritual system and social life in the Ming Dynasty, but also embodied the aesthetic philosophy of “concealing without being hidden, and displaying with moderation”.
Ming Dynasty Aoqun patterns
Ming Dynasty Hanfu patterns stress the unity of symbolic meaning and decorativeness. This also applies to patterns on Ming aoqun.
The themes of aoqun patterns mostly come from nature, auspicious culture, and daily life. Common patterns include intertwined flowers, cloud-dragon motifs, phoenix designs, auspicious beasts, and lucky symbols like “mixed treasures” and “Eight Auspicious Symbols.”
These typical patterns are usually applied to the costume through techniques such as gold weaving, embroidery, and silk tapestry. Color matching follows the rules and requirements of the patterns.
Ming aoqun patterns favor bright colors like red, blue, green, and gold. Different patterns create different styles of aoqun:
Aoqun for common people are usually simple and lively. Their designs are less strict and more vivid.
Aristocratic aoqun, however, look more luxurious. They show nobility through complex patterns and precious materials.
How to Wear Ming Dynasty Aoqun
To achieve the unique aoqun style， proper matching is very important. Here are some suggestions:
Undergarments: Choose plain-colored thin silk belly bands or underbodices.
Upper garment: Pick an ao with narrow or wide sleeves. Use lined ao in spring and autumn. In winter, match it with a “bijia”or a windproof and warm Ming Dynasty pifeng.
Lower garment: Opt for a mamian skirt. Choose its length and pattern style based on your needs.
Accessories: Add jade rings or small pouches around your waist if you like. Wear a grand pearl necklace around your neck.
Hairstyle: Style your hair into a high bun. Decorate it with hairpins and “toumian” (a set of traditional hair ornaments) to create a unique aoqun look.
Additionally, the overall matching of aoqun should follow the principle of “simplicity on top, richness below.” That is, the upper garment should be relatively simple, while the lower skirt can have more decorations. This creates a visual sense of hierarchy and beauty.
Details like patterns, fabrics, and structure can be chosen based on different occasions and needs. This helps the aoqun better set off the wearer’s charm.
